You may call it quintessentially Indian, or recognize it from Mahabharata’s infamous story of how a single piece of unstitched cloth saved the day. You may have witnessed this drape in 100 different forms on 100 different runways season after season or donned one yourself. But there hasn’t been a single moment when a saree wasn’t an absolute masterpiece! Deserving of the designated spot it holds in the spotlight, the saree has been around the world and back again through the ages. Here, we briefly trace the life of a saree right from its inception, to the significant moments in its ongoing and seemingly endless tenure as a timeless wardrobe essential.
So, who wore the first saree? When it comes to matters of the past, there are questions that no one may really have a surefire answer to. This is one of them. While we don’t know who wore the first saree, we do know that it is over 5000 years old and probably one of the only surviving clothing items in history. This makes the saree an important subject for not just the fashion industry, but also for curiosity-driven historians.
Even though the word ‘saree’ comes from Sanskrit and literally means ‘strip of cloth’, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the origin of the silhouette is rooted in Hinduism. Stepping aside from religious references, did you know that the saree has been influenced by a lot of other ancient cultures too? Ancient Greek women wore chitons which were pleated and draped over one shoulder, and the loose fabric touched their ankles. At this time, the idea of a blouse wasn’t prevalent. Inspiration can also be traced back to ancient Egyptian clothing, where elaborate draping with luxe fabrics wasn’t an uncommon sight. Largely affected by orthodox beliefs, clothing and culture, saree is the final product of years of evolution even though it may not seem like it to many.
What was once used as a utilitarian garment later went on to become a mark of Indian culture. The Mughal era was a breeding ground for major fashion choices but one – the blouse wasn’t introduced until much later. Even though it was the Greeks who brought stitching to the Indian fashion scene, a major change was observed in the way sarees were worn when the British entered India. This is when the diaphanous way of draping became a thing of the past. Stitched blouses and petticoats came into light and so did new ways of garment construction. Safe to say, this was a revolutionary change in the world of Indian clothing which we have now come to know and love.
But this is hardly where the saree stopped evolving. In fact, it had just gotten started. Pre-independence India was when the ‘Nivi’ drape made its first appearance and is still extremely popular. One end of the saree cloth was wound around and pleated, tucked into the waistline of the petticoat while the other was usually left loose around the shoulder – all the way to the back – or covered the head of the wearer. Observed only by the royals in the 1930s, this style of draping was later adapted by ordinary women too.
It is no secret that a lot of pre-independence & post-independence clothing trends were in some ways inspired by the British way of dressing. Saree-pins too, were a result of the brooches that British women wore with their dresses. But the pre-independence saree was modest, as compared to the post-independence saree which was far from it! Yes, clean cuts and muted palettes were all the rage before Bollywood but the fashion choices on-screen quickly made their way to off-screen trends too. Bolder cuts gave the simple blouse an updated makeover, and there was no shying away from colour.
As if on cue, the 1970s brought on affordability in the entertainment industry. This meant a huge deal to the saree, as it could be a full-fledged icon on its own after coloured television was more accessible. The saree was introduced to flamboyance and a fresh palette of colours on and off the screen! In fact, taking inspiration from saree designs that were specially made for movies, designers and brands too started making printed sarees that were available to women at various prices. Indian women were now more aware of trends and style and didn’t refrain from making a statement. With a special focus on prints and contrasts, the saree flourished under the craftsmanship of skilled artisans and the charming, everyday woman!
Since time immemorial, humans have always looked towards the past for future inspiration. This holds true for the saree too, as the days of wearing sheer and lightweight drapes were back. Only now, they were paired with a blouse. Thanks to fluid dance movements by female stars in high-on-romance Yashraj movies, the sensual saree was in-trend in the booming 90s. The printed, opaque styles took a backseat as these monotoned sarees made subtle sex appeal and innocence co-exist in the same garment. In a way, Bollywood also played a huge role in the saree revolution.
Moving further away from overall printed and modest styles, fashion in India was now exposed to a bigger platform. This meant that western trends and demands also needed to be met, while still preserving the saree as an icon of Indian style. How did we do it, you ask? Well, Indian women made the saree their own by baring luscious curves in chiffon-clad drapes and dazzling blouses! Whether it was the runway at a beauty pageant, or striking a pose for the paparazzi; Bollywood along with ace Indian designers left no space for another garment to take centre stage!
Let’s fast forward to the present day scenario; the traditional ways of draping a saree have received a modern makeover. With the entire world now looking to strike a balance between being camera-ready while feeling super comfortable, we have social media and the penetration of the internet to blame. Pre-draped sarees are more prevalent among younger and older generations alike, and saree gowns are on every Indian designer’s must-make list. Amidst the modernisation though, there are fashionistas and saree lovers who are striving to revive and restore this yard-long cloth to its natural and former state.
No matter how far we tread from Indian culture, or how many western trends seep into traditional clothing; one thing is for sure – there will always be a special place in every Indian woman’s closet for a saree. Passed as an heirloom across generations, or gifted as a token of appreciation to the women in your life, the saree is not just a garment with a cloth that is long enough to drape you in its embrace – it is also an undying feeling, a gift of time with no expiry date.
Inspired by Sarees. Originally Written by Roshni Verma
